The article was originally published by Robb Report.
Watch auctions are divided into two categories: Patek Philippe and Rolex, which represent the bulk of the value; and everything else. Likewise, jewelry auctions fall into two camps: colored, large, or flawless diamonds and gems; and everything else, including the often more interesting pieces signed by the likes of Cartier, Bulgari, Harry Winston, and Van Cleef & Arpels, and pieces with interesting provenance. Diamonds and gemstones are important from an investment point of view, but the “rest” is often more about beauty and personal taste. There was plenty of evidence of this in the jewelry sales held in Geneva and New York this fall by Sotheby’s, Christie’s, and Phillips. Blue, pink, and yellow diamonds were the kings of the auction season, proving that rare diamonds continue to be go-to investments.
In Geneva, sales at the three auction houses totaled $145,934,377, including $77,703,074 at Christie’s Magnificent Jewels; $46,531,921 at Sotheby’s Magnificent and Noble Jewels; and $21,699,382 at Phillips inaugural Geneva Jewels Watch Auction: One. At the Christie’s sale, the “important” diamonds and gemstones represented more than half the value of all lots combined.
Top Lots at Christie’s Magnificent Jewels Sale
The top three lots in this sale were all gemstones, including a fancy blue diamond, a fancy pink diamond, and a Burmese ruby, totaling nearly $52,000, the bulk of the total $77,703,074 sale.
Lot 87. The Bleu Royal, a 17.61 carat internally flawless fancy vivid blue diamond, selling for $44,009,645. It represents the most expensive jewel sold at auction in 2023.
Lot 78. An 8.77-carat, rectangular, modified brilliant-cut, fancy intense pink diamond selling for $5,172,429.
Lot 78. An 8.77-carat, rectangular, modified brilliant-cut, fancy intense pink diamond selling for $5,172,429.
Top Lots at Phillips Geneva Jewelry Auction: One
The top three lots in Phillips’ $21,699,382 inaugural Geneva jewelry sale were diamonds, one of which was the fourth-largest fancy pink diamond ever sold at auction.
Lot 110. Fancy intense pink diamond weighing 20.19 carats, selling for $13,276,830.
Lot 107. A 54.27-carat intense yellow diamond ring, selling for $1,484,439.
Lot 109. A ring set with a 15.60-carat diamond, accented with baguette diamonds, made by Fred, selling for $991,857.
Lot 109. A ring set with a 15.60-carat diamond, accented with baguette diamonds, made by Fred, selling for $991,857.